JGLs brakes 2017-18

I have decided to re-do my brakes over the winter 2017-18. Any suggestions on parts or methods are welcome. I will be replacing all lines, shoes, brake pads and rotors should be all good but we'll see. New brake lines, rebuilt master cylinder, rear cylinders, are my main plan so far. I will not be using a proportioning valve any more abut going with direct pressure for the front and a adjustable proportioning valve for the rear. This method is used by a few guys on FABO with great success and I have had the parts needed for a few years. My budget for this is limited. I hope I can use some ''best'' parts but at least the ''better'' ones.

JG. Just a couple of questions.
You bought your car brand new, right ?
If the brakes worked good enough then, why is the upgrade needed now ?
I understand replacing shoes, cylinders and lines (AS REQUIRED).
But not the replacement of the proportioning valve.
I know that you've added a lot more power, but my upgraded 340, still runs with 4 wheel drum brakes, without any stopping issues.

I did not only by it new, I ordered it.
The proportioning valve has been a thorne in my side since I bought the car because the rear tires kept locking up at the worst times and I only found out about 5 years ago that this was due to a faulty prop vale so this is why I am making a change, I think it is a good reason for an upgrade.

Brake lines, are yours that rusty. Your only options are to get out a tube bender and get busy or buy prebent. Are you sticking with stock wheel size, if so that eliminates some major upgrades in rotors and caliper size. rear brakes you can look into rear disk, lots of options there. My 74 Dart stock brakes stop on a dime. your rear brakes locking up, could be that the shoes are contaminated with gear oil and sticking have you checked for that. My opinion, replace what needs to be replaced and buy the best you can afford. 4 wheel wildwood would be nice but do you need that kind of braking.

For the past 11 years I have been running 15'' wheels and tires. Can't afford wildwood but I wish I could. I run stock brakes and yes they are rusty after 41 years but only one winter, the rear lines have already let go and were replaced. The brakes were adjusted by the dealer back in the day and later on also by me and other mechanics, all with the same result.

One of the rear drums can have a hot spot in it or as Mike said, your brake shoes can be contaminated. ,I would replace the shoes with quality ones and have the drums machined. It's very unlikely that the proportioning valve, has been bad this long without getting a whole lot worse.

Weird because I put new rear brakes when I rebuilt the car, the drums did not show any abnormalities so I did not bother to have them turned. I figure that I just got used to what could happen so I was careful when braking.

JG, the brake drums wouldn't necessarily show any abnormal wear that is visible to the eye. Even if they were slightly out of round, that could cause brake lock up.

That makes a lot of sense, you have seen and worked on a lot more cars than me over the years. Thanks for making me realise that stuff.

If it were me, I would get a good quality set of brake shoes, new hold down kits and machine the drums. If it doesn't work your out $125. or so, and if it does work then your miles ahead. Remember to wipe down the freshly cut drums with some brake cleaner and a clean shop towel, before installing. Also don't touch the inside of the drums with your fingers as the oil from your skin can contaminate the drums. Good Luck, Bud.

THANKS, now all I need is to find a descent set of pads for a price that fits my budget (which is not very high.
Looks like I am going to keep my front rotors which have approx. 5000 miles on them, clean them and put on a new set of pads.

Machine my brake drums, replace cylinders and inspect shoes replace springs and brake lines, all for under $300.00...good luck to me!
What should for front pads...semi metallic or other?

As you know, price normally dictates quality. But if your Budget is tight then try and find Bendix as these are still produced both in Canada and the USA. if your unable to find Bendix then look for Wagner. You may be able to buy prebent new steel brake lines from
In-Line Tube. Brake Plumbing Products. Can't hurt to see what it will cost doing it this way as apposed to trying to make them yourself. I've bought from them before and thought they were reasonable.

smoken340 wrote:As you know, price normally dictates quality. But if your Budget is tight then try and find Bendix as these are still produced both in Canada and the USA. if your unable to find Bendix then look for Wagner. You may be able to buy prebent new steel brake lines from
In-Line Tube. Brake Plumbing Products. Can't hurt to see what it will cost doing it this way as apposed to trying to make them yourself. I've bought from them before and thought they were reasonable.

I was talking to a mopar friend of mine this afternoon who works at NAPA and he said that I might not need brake lines since my car only seen 1 winter and that was its first year, he said have a look underneath to make sure...he was right I do not need lines and the ones over he axle have already been replaced. Now I can put that money elsewhere.
So it is going to be:(for the rear) machine drums, brake cylinders, shoes and spring kit, (front) original discs, new pads and calipers, replace original master cylinder with a rebuilt one I have.     We are going to New York this fall, so I might be able to find some deals there as well. ''What should for I use front pads...semi metallic or other''?

JGL wrote:I did not only by it new, I ordered it.
The proportioning valve has been a thorne in my side since I bought the car because the rear tires kept locking up at the worst times and I only found out about 5 years ago that this was due to a faulty prop vale so this is why I am making a change, I think it is a good reason for an upgrade.

I used the truck wheel cylinders when I had drum brakes. Worked great with no lock up before front wheels locked up Stock bore is 15/16" and the trucks is 7/8" (Raybestos WC37236, DORMAN W37236).

Application.
CHRYSLER IMPERIAL 1968-1969
DODGE B100 1971-1977
DODGE B200 1971-1977
DODGE B300 1973-1977
DODGE D100 PICKUP 1972-1977
DODGE D150 PICKUP 1977
FARGO B200 VAN 1971-1972
FARGO D100 PICKUP 1972
PLYMOUTH PB100 1975-1977
PLYMOUTH PB100 VAN 1974
PLYMOUTH PB200 1975-1977
PLYMOUTH PB200 VAN 1974

JG, change the brake hose, keep you caliper if they're good or rebuild those.

New development, I double checked the lines, they are all in excellent shape, the rear lines have already been changed they are less than 5 years old, the original ones got rusty and were leaking. Hopefully I am going to get my front calipers rebuilt, might even paint them bright red.

JGL wrote:New development, I double checked the lines, they are all in excellent shape, the rear lines have already been changed they are less than 5 years old, the original ones got rusty and were leaking. Hopefully I am going to get my front calipers rebuilt, might even paint them bright red.

jG, it's real easy to rebuild calipers, try it. And it's cheap too.

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