Starting the DART SPORT

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Starting the DART SPORT

Post by JGL on Sat Jan 30, 2016 1:53 pm

Tomorrow +6, Monday +8, Wednesday +1, more sun tomorrow than the other days, it would be a good day to start the car so I probably will. I start it 2-3 times per winter, weather permitting and let it warm up, then its back in the garage and back to sleep for another while. I will likely change the thermostat gasket once it is cooled off a bit and start on the other projects when time and weather permit. It's going to be a pretty mild week so maybe more than one thing will get done. I will be able to start scratching things off my to do list, for the car. The roads are usually in good enough condition by the 3rd week of May. That leaves us 5-6 months to enjoy our rides.

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Re: Starting the DART SPORT

Post by smoken340 on Sat Jan 30, 2016 4:17 pm

I put my car away and don't bother running it until spring. You will never get it hot enough running it for 1/2 an hour, to get the moisture out of the exhaust. Hot gasses in a cold exhaust system equals, lots of moisture. That equits to exhaust rot.

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Re: Starting the DART SPORT

Post by JGL on Sat Jan 30, 2016 6:10 pm

Exhaust rot with stainless exhaust...not supposed to happen.

I heard it was actually good for them. Some do and some don't.

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Re: Starting the DART SPORT

Post by smoken340 on Sat Jan 30, 2016 6:26 pm

Insides of your mufflers are not stainless and that's where the rot starts. Most affordable headers are defiantly not stainless. If your running stock manifolds not stainless either. Also any moisture in the exhaust system can travel back into the engine that has open valves, this causes rust in the cylinders.

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Re: Starting the DART SPORT

Post by JGL on Sun Jan 31, 2016 6:15 am

Point well made.

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Re: Starting the DART SPORT

Post by Gazoo on Sun Jan 31, 2016 7:24 am

smoken340 wrote:Insides of your mufflers are not stainless and that's where the rot starts. Most affordable headers are defiantly not stainless. If your running stock manifolds not stainless either. Also any moisture in the exhaust system can travel back into the engine that has open valves, this causes rust in the cylinders.

Exactly Dan, I've mentioned that point about a year ago, in another thread, I believe it was about winter storage.
I used to start and run mine once a month, for a couple reasons, 1) To not let the valves and lifters sit under pressure and 2) Because I have a detached garage and live next to a field, I usually have rodents sneak in. I'd start the car, close up the garage and let the car run for about 1/2 hour, 45 mins, with the garage closed. Then I'd take a deep breath, run in and turn the car off and run back out. I'd only return to the garage a couple hours later to open doors and let it clear the air out. I did this to hopefully kill any rodents roaming around in there, that I didn't catch in the traps.

It wasn't until a few years ago that I started putting a bit more thought into it, when I noticed the ceramic coat flaking off my two year old headers, that I was creating condensation, both externally and internally in my engine.
Not only does the cold air from an unheated garage enter your hot engine from the open exhaust valves, it also enters from your open intake valves, as your carburetor is not completely sealed.
You can actually see the condensation forming on your rockers, when you remove the oil filler cap and look inside the valve cover.
This is the reason I dump my oil EVERY spring, right after I've run the engine for a while, in hopes of capturing most of the moisture in the oil.

Having said this, you're not exactly going to destroy your engine if you start it and run it regularly; therefore not letting enough time for the corrosion process to start. The majority of seized engines are seized at the top piston ring, not the bottom ring.

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Re: Starting the DART SPORT

Post by JGL on Sun Jan 31, 2016 10:33 am

Makes sense I guess, maybe I will leave it alone. Last winter is when I took the intake off so the car did not run that season, maybe this will make two in a row.

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Re: Starting the DART SPORT

Post by smoken340 on Sun Jan 31, 2016 11:31 am

Giles,
I agree with you to an extent. If you start your car at least once every couple of weeks, then there shouldn't be a problem with rust in the engine. This is where we split hairs so to speak. However that won't help the moisture inside of your mufflers, that is eating away at the baffles. Also it doesn't take much rust to scratch a cylinder wall or for that matter break a ring. I just don't see the sense in starting an engine only to let it idle for a little while. I don't believe 4/5 months of sitting is long enough to dry out the rubber parts and seals. If the valve springs are the only concern, just reach under the hood and give the engine half a turn by hand or even by the key.

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Re: Starting the DART SPORT

Post by rigger3006 on Wed Feb 03, 2016 5:58 am

hmmmmm..., i couldnt resist starting the demon the other day either, +6 out. this year i started putting rags in the exhaust tips to stop moisture seeping up to the engine and a desiccant bag on top of velocity stack and covering that up tight, not sure if it will help my engine or not. last winter the insides of valve covers rusted up pretty bad. gonna check them again in march to see if it made a difference

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Re: Starting the DART SPORT

Post by Gazoo on Wed Feb 03, 2016 8:27 am

rigger3006 wrote:hmmmmm..., i couldnt resist starting the demon the other day either, +6 out. this year i started putting rags in the exhaust tips to stop moisture seeping up to the engine and a desiccant bag on top of velocity stack and covering that up tight, not sure if it will help my engine or not. last winter the insides of valve covers rusted up pretty bad. gonna check them again in march to see if it made a difference

Be careful with the moisture absorbents, make sure you check on them periodically.
The whole interior of my Duster was covered in mold this year, I couldn't figure out why...I found out after the insurance adjuster was here looking at the car.
When I pulled my back seat out, I remembered I had put two bags of desiccant under the seat, one on each side, the year before.
Those babies weighed about 1 1/2 -2lbs each, they were well saturated, and somehow were still attracting moisture.
Lesson learned, they work real good, just don't forget about them.

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Re: Starting the DART SPORT

Post by smoken340 on Thu Feb 04, 2016 5:47 am

rigger3006 wrote:hmmmmm..., i couldnt resist starting the demon the other day either, +6 out. this year i started putting rags in the exhaust tips to stop moisture seeping up to the engine and a desiccant bag on top of velocity stack and covering that up tight, not sure if it will help my engine or not. last winter the insides of valve covers rusted up pretty bad. gonna check them again in march to see if it made a difference

Unfortunatly, the moisture is still going to be lying in the bottom of your mufflers and by placing rags in the tips, you are now not allowing air in to help dry it up. It's really a no win situation, you have to allow air in to help dry out the moisture.

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Re: Starting the DART SPORT

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